Miu Miu fall winter 2011/2012

Miu Miu collection was greatly inspired by the '40s. Inverted triangle shapes, pencil skirts, mink belts and shoulders, which were extremely exaggerated and dramatic. Red, navy blue, mustard yellow and, of course, black: bold flower prints (especially lilies of the valley) and birds. The whole atmosphere (clothes, hair, makeup) brought us back in the WWII era. Literally elegant and discreet, far away from the pop coloured spring 2011 inspired by the starve for celebrity.

All images coutesy of Vogue.it

Alexander McQueen fall winter 2011/2012

Conciergerie all over again.
McQueen had already staged a fashion show there for fall winter 2002/2003. The conciergerie was the élite prison, and most notably, Marie Antoinette's last demeure. "The Ice Queen and her court" (as this collection was called) shows us that Alexander McQueen's craftmanship and genius is not gone away with his death. His dna and legacy still lives in the work of Sarah Burton; in fact she has been his collaborator for years, so I suppose that even her ideas contributed to the birth of McQueen's notorious collections in the past.
A new level of femininity and lightness enters McQueen' s world (as previously experienced last spring summer collection). The drama was there but in a less harsh way. Blinding white, grey and charcoal black. Slim waists, big shoulders underlined by fur, body conscious silouhettes and a deep research on textures and fabrics mixing. Zippers that help build the dress and ornate it. Touches of fur, romantic and flowing organza and tulle. The house classic taste for fetish: leather strings and belts.  And a bustier, completely handmade, covered in small pieces of china. Now that's craftmanship!

All images couresy of Vogue.it

Chanel fall winter 2011/2012

Someone might ask: what is the inspiration behind Chanel new winter collection? Well, Mr. Lagerfeld himself give us the answer: a childhood winter he remembered, spent in the northern Europe, with forests and wild nature in the background.
Karl is definitely experiencing the concept of wanderlust this season.
So in a misty scenario that looks like a painting by Friedrich, models enter the runway from a powerful Chanel light box ( perhaps a symbol of the human life co-existing with wild nature? ok I'm done with philosophical interpretation). Androgyny is one of the main themes: baggy pants, strong silhouettes, jackets, slightly masculine proportions and fabrics but reinterpreted with a very self conscious femininity.
Clothes for a woman who certainly has not to look for a man to protect herself.
Are we going to see these grunge tomboys on the streets this fall?

All images courtesy of Vogue.it

  

Viktor & Rolf fall winter 2011/2012

A "Glamorous fashion crusade", as Viktor Horsting described it.

21st century Middle Age. A drawbridge came down and modern knight-moiselles showed up.
Ecru, silver but basically red and black: these two colours are even in nature a sign of warning.
The models faces were painted blood red and the complex structure of the clothes really looked like an armor. Plus the fabrics used (like sculptural leather) contributed to give an unattackable feel to the clothes.
A graphic show, containing even some medieval symbols, reminded at some point the duo's last winter collection, Glamour Factory (especially the last part of the show).
Just as the song played during the show, a "battle for the sun": a dark, hard, strong tailoring for new chevalieres.

All images courtesy of Vogue.it