giovedì 7 luglio 2011

Chanel couture 2011/2012: Coco Vendôme

This season , the Gran Palais reincarnates into Place Vendôme. How? well, thanks to Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, who decided to stage his latest collection in this square, so dear to mademoiselle Chanel herself.
Dark: neon blue lights and shimmering black floor give the taste of a winter , rainy night in Paris.
The designer said that for this season he wanted to melt the two different sides of Chanel: the androgyny, the boyish construction of clothes (inspired by the beginning of XX century Austrian and English men clothing) and the romantic side of Chanel.
What we have this season is a coherent collection to the house DNA. Tweed suits with round shoulder and almost tubular 3/4 sleeves, jackets flared in trapezoid shape (made with tweed, feathers, satin) from the waist down. This new silhouette reminded me of Fernand Léger paintings (the sleeves particularly).


Fernand Léger- Les loisirs sur fond rouge

Black, white are predominant; here and there touches of fuchsia and night blue.
At one point the dresses were embroidered with macro-buttons that made them look like they were polka dotted.
Boater hats in tweed and feathers adorned the girls' heads. Tight full skirted dresses, flared at the end; the same for dress coats.
 And what about the shoes? Black high heeled platform shoes, with a built-in light ! 
























all images courtesy of Vogue.com







Couture season! Givenchy fall/winter 2011 2012

Are 10  pieces enough for a couture show? Yes, according to Mr. Tisci, who this season takes us on a journey inspired by the bird of paradise (both a flower and an actual bird).



These floor length gowns are extremely elaborated. Pearls give them a tridimensional look; ostrich feathers are delicately interlaced in the bodice. The embroidery is complexe but at the same time so delicate. White is predominant. A caramel hue makes its debut in the last piece, a revealing evening dress completed by a floor length fringed clutch.
Let me tell you: ten pieces are enough for a couture show, if that's the level of mastery. Bravo, Mr. Tisci.




















All images courtesy of Vogue.com