Spring/Summer 2012 : Under the Sea

Sea has been one of the greatest influences on the catwalks during this spring runway shows. Maybe it's because what lives under the ocean is an unstoppable source of marvellous. So, whether it was a giant coral reef set in the Grand Palais (Lagerfeld always outdoes himself when it's about Chanel) or iconic sea print from a past heritage (Versace anyone?), sea is the new thing.

GIVENCHY

The main inspiration behind these clothes were mermaids and scuba divers. Many iridescent materials, transparencies. Maxi ruches, exotic skins. And shark toothed necklaces.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Sarah Burton gives us pretty much the same silhouettes from the past season, even for the shoes. China is now converted into red coral. Shimmering fabrics and a sort of lightness to it make the models look like submarine creatures.

 

VERSACE

Donatella looks back. Again. I mean, could you blame her with such a legacy behind (and every designer taking inspiration from Gianni lately)? She gives new life to the infamous Versace baroque sea print, adding pastel colours, shells made in studs, seahorse shoes and swarovski starfishes. Brilliant.

CHANEL 

Chanel, and especially Karl Lagerfeld's vision, sets the trend every season and reinforce any subtle concept behind it. If someone thought before this show that sea was an influence in next spring fashion, Karl sets the record straight with everyone. The stage? Grand Palais, ça va sans rien dire.

Pearls (one of the maison symbols) were everywhere: jackets, necklaces, purses. The fabric was used to give an impression of an underwater flower. An attention to the details that reaches obsessive levels.

all images coutesy of style.com

Chanel couture 2011/2012: Coco Vendôme

This season , the Gran Palais reincarnates into Place Vendôme. How? well, thanks to Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, who decided to stage his latest collection in this square, so dear to mademoiselle Chanel herself.
Dark: neon blue lights and shimmering black floor give the taste of a winter , rainy night in Paris.
The designer said that for this season he wanted to melt the two different sides of Chanel: the androgyny, the boyish construction of clothes (inspired by the beginning of XX century Austrian and English men clothing) and the romantic side of Chanel.
What we have this season is a coherent collection to the house DNA. Tweed suits with round shoulder and almost tubular 3/4 sleeves, jackets flared in trapezoid shape (made with tweed, feathers, satin) from the waist down. This new silhouette reminded me of Fernand Léger paintings (the sleeves particularly).

Fernand Léger- Les loisirs sur fond rouge

Black, white are predominant; here and there touches of fuchsia and night blue.
At one point the dresses were embroidered with macro-buttons that made them look like they were polka dotted.
Boater hats in tweed and feathers adorned the girls' heads. Tight full skirted dresses, flared at the end; the same for dress coats.
 And what about the shoes? Black high heeled platform shoes, with a built-in light ! 

all images courtesy of Vogue.com